France: Surviving Black Saturday – Off-roading. Vineyards. Loire

TODAY: how to cope with Black Saturday, the busiest day on French roads (and a rest of Europe holiday traffic roundup).

Plus, off-roading through the Loire vineyards. The A9 at Narbonne reopens after a massive forest fire (then closes again). Warm beer and Ferraris at Harpenden’s Classics on the Common. Heavy rain causes chaos in Austria and Romania. Bulgarian traffic police to blitz nightlife hotspots as serious accidents rise ‘dramatically’. Police warn regular stoners – and even recent casual users – not to drive in Denmark.

GIBRALTAR FRONTIER WATCH: no delays overnight, 30mins at 09:15CET, 2h00 at 21:40.

CALAIS TRUCKS MIGRANT’S PETITION: 2,988 signatures since 15.7. See @Justice4Trucker.

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SURVIVING BLACK SATURDAY

Pointers on coping with the busiest day of the year on French roads.

Photo @TRAFsudouest

The A10 Paris-Bordeaux is a well known jam hotspot, especially around Niort. Consider the N10 Poitires-Angouleme-Bordeaux. Photo @TRAFsudouest

French motorways function exceptionally well for the vast majority of the time. They struggle however with Black Saturdays – Samedi Noir – the mass getaway days of which the first Saturday in August is the busiest.

Jams start from 07:00 and move inexorably south and west from Paris as the day wears on. From experience however, we can say the delays peak at around lunchtime and have normally dissipated entirely by soon after 18:00.

The traditional advice is to leave early. That way, at least you know you will arrive eventually. But there is also an argument for leaving later too (or getting past Paris and having a long, lazy lunch). Dutch motoring club @ANWB advises it members to leave home at 12:00.

If at all possible avoid the A6-A7 Paris-Lyon-Avignon. Without doubt this is the busiest road in France. Three hour delays are not unusual between Lyon and Avignon, spread all along its 140 mile length, but particularly around Valence.

From Calais, dodging via Reims, Troyes, Dijon and Grenoble can be handy but feeds traffic back in at Valence, hence – partly – the big jams. If it’s really bad, those heading for the Cote d/Azur should consider the N85 Route Napoleon from Grenoble.

Next most congested is the A10 Paris–Orleans–Bordeaux, the particular bottleneck being Niort. Last year the canny diversion was N10 Poitiers-Angouleme-Bordeaux.

Other jam prone roads include the A9 south to the Spanish border from Montpellier, the A8 Avignon-Nice, A11 out to Nantes and Rennes, A31 Metz-Dinon and, recently, the A29 west across northern France with hotspots at Amiens and into Le Havre. Click here to see the busiest roads on a map (highlighted in red).

Generally less busy are the motorways heading south through the centre of the country – the A20 via Limoges and Brives, and the A71/A75 via Clermont Ferrand. There are no guarantees though. All available routes can be subject to long delays.

There are plenty of ways to keep abreast of the traffic situation. Apart from your own satnav system, gantries above the motorways give actual journey times at any one point. The national traffic website Bison Fute has info in English, as does the 107.7fm radio station for the Sanef network (also available via app). @VinciAutoroutes sends out a really handy graphic showing journey times across the main routes in the south at least every two hours. We tweet an hourly overview of the major delays @DriveEurope.

In the worst case, improvise. Apart from vastly cheaper fuel at local filling stations, and seeing places you normally wouldn’t, heading through the sticks can save time. The N road network is not always fully dual carriageway but will at least have regular two-lane stretches where you can get past slower moving vehicles (trucks and coaches are banned on summer Saturdays).

Finally, be prepared, and not just with plenty of food and drink, and games for the kids. Mindset is important too. Jams can add four or five hours to a cross country journey on Black Saturday. Anything less than that means you should count yourself lucky.

Update 4 August: these predictions turned out to be reasonably accurate. See what actually happened here.

The Rest of Europe: Germany’s ADAC has abandoned its usual fruity phrases to describe this weekend’s traffic, merely noting that – now all the schools are on holiday – ‘This coming weekend, the summer tourist traffic starts in the hot phase.’ Sunday will be quieter. Similarly, Austria’s OAMTC says, ‘This weekend is expected to be probably one of the highlights (sic) of this year’s travel south’, i.e. the A13/A22 Brenner motorway, Innsbruck-Verona, as well as the usual Germany-Austria cross border jams, notably B179 Fernpass (last weekend however the A95/B2 crossing at Garmisch was quiet). The queues at Switzerland’s Gotthard Tunnel were noticeably longer on Thursday night ahead of the national day celebrations on Friday. That might knock a kilometre or two off the queues over the weekend, not that anybody will notice. As ever, if possible, the Tunnel should be avoided. Finally, Luxembourg is bracing itself for the summer influx as transit drivers take advantage of the cheap fuel. Extra staff and frequent fuel deliveries are being laid on but please note, the A31 south from Luxembourg to Dijon via Metz will be a jam hotspot this weekend.

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Vines in Action: off roading through the vineyards of the Loire @FrenchWiineTours. More later.

Vines in Action: off road along the trails and tracks of the Loire Valley, learning about wine, visiting local producers then picnicking beside the river. The Wild Vines Wine & Boat Safari at La Grand Maison d’Arthenay near Saumur in western France – five hours from Calais via Rouen and Le Mans – is a two night package which also includes, among other things, an afternoon’s sailing on the Loire, bed and breakfasts and a wine-tasting supper. €495 per person. English-owned. What a great way to start a holiday. See lagrandemaison.net or @FrenchWineTours

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roundup: FRANCE. A 400 hectare forest fire closed the nearby A9 and A61 at Narbonne yesterday afternoon – on the major route to Spain – causing enormous tailbacks and multi-hour delays. No injuries were reported and the roads started to reopen at 19:30. After a trouble-free morning, fire struck again this afternoon though airborne firefighters were quickly able to get the flames under control. This stretch of road, along the western coast of the Mediterranean, has seen numerous and regular severe incidents recently, all resulting in massive delays. BULGARIA. Starting next week, traffic police will blitz social hotspots on Friday and Saturday nights – pulling over vehicles in batches of up to fifteen at a time – is response to a ‘dramatic’ rise in the number of fatal accidents so far this year (after years of falls). Meanwhile, truckers have called off plans to blockade capital Sofia tomorrow afternoon (Friday) after the authorities agreed to remove some roads from the Friday/Sunday summer 12t+ HGV restrictions. DENMARK. A zero tolerance approach to Drug Driving means drivers found with any cannabis in their system face fines of 4% of their annual salary and a three year driving ban (what penalty foreign drivers would face is not known). ‘Drivers should not drive for three weeks after they smoke,’ one officer told the Copenhagen Post. Experts say the regime is too harsh, and that the drug remains detectable for up to eight weeks after use, long after the effects have worn off. Police use a road side detector called the ‘narkometer’.

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Classics on the Common:

Classics on the Common, Harpenden: what started out twenty years ago as a few enthusiasts proudly showing off their lovingly restored motors on the village green has since deservedly grown into the UK’s biggest mid-week classic car show. Ultimately the corporate sponsors are sure to catch on. In the meantime it’s a delightfully English, haphazardly organised event where kids, dogs and the great unwashed are welcome to mingle with the chatty owners of some top-quality, multi-million pound machinery. Proceedings are normally called to a halt by the local constabulary as the light fades and owners cannot resist a few burnouts down the high street. It’s free too. See classicsonthecommon.com

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Norwegian Seaways: No News Is Not Bad News – Eurotunnel Carries 88% of all Pets

No news is not bad news for Norwegian Seaways’ proposed UK-Norway ferry link.

Also, a photo competition from DFDS. A first look at Jaguar’s new compact sports saloon. Eurotunnel says it carries an overwhelming majority of pets taken to the Continent, trucks will be barred from the A35 Basel border over the weekend, the EU selects the major transport projects for funding this year, Bulgarian truckers threaten to blockade Sofia, and a boy was stung by a scorpion on a Norway-bound ferry.

GIBRALTAR FRONTIER WATCH: up to 60mins delay at midnight, estimated 45mins at 13:40CET, up to 60mins since.

CALAIS TRUCKS MIGRANT’S PETITION: 2,947 signatures since 15.7. See @Justice4Trucker.

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NORWEGIAN SEAWAYS: NO NEWS IS NOT BAD NEWS

Hopes still alive for UK-Scandinavia ferry link.

Bergen harbour: photo VisitBergen.com/Per Eike.

Bergen harbour: photo VisitBergen.com/Per Eike.

Nine months after it was first published, our story on the proposed Norwegian Seaways ferry route between Newcastle and Norway continues to be one of our most read and commented on.

That might have a lot to do with DFDS withdrawing from the Harwich-Esbjerg route – the last remaining ferry link between the UK and Scandinavia – at the end of September.

Coach operators, hauliers, tour organisers, private drivers and expats are all keen – desperate in some cases – to see a route return.

With no news recently, the concern was that the idea had been quietly forgotten. However, while there is still nothing specific to report we can at least tell you that the route is still on the cards.

A short message from Norwegians seaways operations director Paul Woodbury last night confirmed that the project ‘remains active’, and that when there is something to say we will be among the first to know.

In the meantime, our message to you is that if you want to see this route return, keep the comments coming. By definition, the more the merrier. Not just to encourage Norwegian Seaways but to help convince all the other agencies involved that this route is viable.

Fingers crossed, the next time Norwegian Seaways gets a mention on @DriveEurope it will be with the good news we have all been waiting for.

Read the background here.

Thanks for the comments everybody: keep them coming. If you weren’t aware, Regina Line says it will start a new service Harwich-Esbjerg (Denmark) at Easter 2015. See more. 

UPDATE: a new group campaigning for the restoration of the Norway ferry launches on Thursday 16 October at FerryToNorway.com.

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A montage of all the photos submitted so far for the DFDS Summer Photo Competition. Win a free ferry crossing and a £250 Amazon voucher. Submit photos at #DFDS by 14 September.

A montage of all the pictures entered so far for the DFDS Summer Photo Competition. Win a free ferry crossing and a £250 Amazon voucher. Submit snaps at #DFDSPhotos, by 14 September.

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roundup: EUROTUNNEL says it has carried 88% of all pets transported under the UK Pet Passport Scheme so far this year. Pets travel inside owner’s cars. Meanwhile, last week’s great school getaway saw a record week for the fixed link operator – 49,500 cars, campers, motorbikes and coaches used the service, up 3% on the same time in 2013. FRANCE-SWITZERLAND. The Swiss border from the A35 autoroute near Basel will be closed to trucks from 31.7-4.8, 22:00-05:00 for the Swiss national day celebrations reports @TrackerinfoEU, see more here. EUROPE. €14m to upgrade the link between Dover and Calais, €15m for studies on a new Storstrom bridge in Denmark – on the E55/E47 Copenhagen-Rodby ferry route – and €10m towards pollution-abatement tech on cross-Channel ferries ahead of next year’s new low sulphur regulations. All among the winners in this year’s round of EU TEN-T funding announced today, for improvements to the strategic transport networks around Europe. More on this soon. LUXEMBOURG. An attempted car-jacking at a rural junction in southern Luxembourg last night. The driver escaped after injuring one of the attackers. BULGARIA. Truckers are threatening to block all exits from capital Sofia on Friday unless new restrictions on the movement of 12t+ vehicles – Friday 6-9pm and Sunday 2-8pm – are cancelled. NORWAY. A boy says he was stung by a scorpion on the Fjord Line Hirtshals-Kristiansand, Denmark-Norway ferry last night. His claim was apparently backed up by several witnesses. The boat briefly returned to harbour. No major injuries were reported.

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A first look at Jaguar's imminent XE compact sports saloon, to be launched at a high-profile, star studded in London on 8 September.

Can Jaguar’s imminent XE compact sports saloon really cut it against established rivals like the Mercedes C-Class, BMW 3-series and Audi’s A4? Clever new technology like All Surface Progress Control suggest it might. Based on sister company Land Rover’s off-road traction control systems, ASPC works like a low speed cruise control to optimise grip in slippery conditions says the company. It will be mighty useful in the winter, and certainly whets the appetite; Jaguar is due to make three more new tech announcements ahead of the car’s high-profile, star studded launch in London on 8 September for which ubercool Celine-clad crooner Emeli Sande, above, is crowd-composing a new theme tune. Pictured alongside, for the first time, is the XE S with 340bhp apparently. Other versions will dip under the 100g/km CO2 barrier. The range kicks off at £29,000 says Autocar; £25,000 says The Sunday Times.

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EU Takes Harder Line on German ‘Foreigner Vignette’ – Kerch Bridge Or Tunnel?

TODAY: new remarks by the Transport Commissioner appear to suggest a harder line is being taken on the upcoming German ‘foreigner vignette’ – or do they?

A Chinese company offers to build a tunnel under Crimea’s Kerch Strait rather than a bridge as originally planned. The road surface is being blamed for a deadly bus crash in Norway today. Spain plans to give special passes to people crossing the Gibraltar frontier on a regular basis. A Romanian couple drift their way up Transfagarasan.

GIBRALTAR FRONTIER WATCH: quiet overnight and this morning; up to 60mins at 14:00, quiet subsequently then 2h30 at 22:30.

CALAIS TRUCKS MIGRANT’S PETITION: 2,869 signatures since 15.7. See @Justice4Trucker.

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EU APPEARS TO TAKE A HARDER LINE ON GERMAN ‘FOREIGNER VIGNETTE’

But Austria may be grasping at straws.

The European Commssion's Transport Commissioner Siim Kallas. A recent article in a shipping magazine called him 'non-interventionist'. The

Parting Shot: the European Commssion’s outgoing Transport Commissioner Siim Kallas. A recent article in a shipping magazine called him ‘non-interventionist’. According to the DVZ interviewer, he is known by some in Brussels as ‘a man who promised much but delivered little’. Either way, Kallas seems determined to have a final word on the German ‘foreigner vignette’.

Remarks from the European Commission’s outgoing Transport Commissioner seems to suggest a new, harder line is being taken on the German ‘foreigner vignette’.

In an interview with German transport magazine DVZ published yesterday, Siim Kallas said the new toll has ‘absolutely not’ been approved by the Commission, and that there should not be a direct link between the toll and the corresponding tax rebate for German drivers.

He also said, ‘We will follow very closely whether there is discrimination in the German system.’

Kallas‘ remarks were immediately seized upon by the Austrian transport minister Doris Bures. In a press release she said she welcomed ‘the clear statement’, adding, ‘The EU Commissioner confirms my critical attitude to the way how Germany is shaping its toll. All experts see this as a breach of the principle of equal treatment.’

In truth however, while the tone may have been more forceful, the Commission’s line is unchanged since the beginning. Its response to the toll’s official unveiling in early July said, ‘Until all the details are known and discussed there can be no green or red light from Brussels…

[Vignettes] should not be directly aimed at discriminating of foreign drivers. Everybody should pay a fair share for using and maintaining roads. The Minister appears to take this into account, but we would need to see the details.’

In any case, Kallas leaves his post in the next few months. Whether or not any action is taken against the toll will be down to his successor. That may well depend on which country the new transport commissioner comes from.

Also – the man behind the man behind the foreigner vignette – Bavarian CSU party leader Horst Seehofer – said at the weekend that the governing coalition could be at risk if the toll plan failed in Germany. Seehofer famously made the toll a deal-breaker during last year’s general election. It was subsequently written in to the coalition agreement. As part of the bargain his sidekick from Bavaria, Alexander Dobrindt, was made transport minister.

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Roadside rebel recruitment poster in Donetsk, east Ukraine. Photo via @KiritRadia

A roadside rebel recruitment poster in Donetsk, east Ukraine. Photo via @KiritRadia. Meanwhile, disturbing news from Crimea last week where it was announced that prisoners will help build the Kerch Bridge from Russia. Reminiscent of the Stalin-era ‘Road of Bones’ Kolyma Highway in east Siberia where fallen prisoners were buried under the advancing highway. However, according to the Moscow Times yesterday, Chinese investors have now proposed building a tunnel underneath the Kerch Strait instead of a bridge using expertise gained on a similar project in Macau. It would take 2.5 years and would not cost the Russian state any money upfront. The idea is likely to find favour. The Russians are already struggling to absorb Crime economically while building a bridge on the shifting sands of the Sea of Azov would be an enormous undertaking. The tunnel would contain two railway lines and a six lane road.

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roundup: NORWAY. The road surface is being blamed for a deadly bus crash earlier today. Three elderly Swiss passengers died after a coach veered off the E6 near Breakkvasselv, between Trondheim and Mo i Rana in central Norway. A local mayor told the press (via thelocal.no), ‘One of the greatest risks we expose ourselves to as humans is driving on the E6.’ The stretch had been resurfaced earlier this year but was apparently signed as slippery and bumpy. E6, the main north-south road through Norway, starts in southern Sweden and ends at Kirkenes near the Russian border, after 1950 miles. GIBRALTAR. The UK government is mulling a new plan by Spain to give frequent fliers special passes across the frontier to avoid often lengthy queues. The people set to benefit most are Spanish nationals working in Gibraltar.

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Watch husband and wife crazy couple Ramona Rusu and Gabi Ifrim drift their modified BMW 3-series around the mad curves of Romania’s Transfagarasan Highway. Video via @CARmagSA:

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‘Transfagarasan’ Motorway Still Years Away – Tesla Free Charge Network Growing Fast

TODAY: there is no prospect of a ‘Transfagarasan motorway’ in Romania any time soon.

Tesla’s free-to-use European supercharger network is growing at a furious pace.

GIBRALTAR FRONTIER WATCH: quiet overnight, around 60mins at 15:00CET, max 30mins since.

CALAIS TRUCKS MIGRANTS PETITION: 2,689 signatures since 15.7. See @Justice4Trucker.

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‘TRANSFAGARASAN MOTORWAY’ STILL MANY YEARS AWAY

Bad news for Dacia but some better news for mountain pass fans.

The enormous technical challenge involved in building a motorway across the Southern Carpathian mountain range means the much vaunted road is still many years away said the new Romanian transport minister last week.

The government is under severe pressure – notably from auto maker Dacia – to complete the A1. It will stretch from capital Bucharest to the Hungarian border at Nadlac in the west, and form the backbone of the still-to-emerge Romanian core motorway network. Currently only sections in the west and south are open for traffic.

In March the then transport minister said work would start next year but in a TV interview last Thursday, his successor poured cold water on the idea.

While acknowledging the road would ‘eventually’ be built, the recently appointed Ioan Rus said the costs were likely to reach $30m per kilometre, some ten times the cost of roads in neighbouring, albeit less mountainous, countries.

Such were the difficulties he said that building the A1’s central section could be compared to a ‘new Transfagarasan’ referring to the high cost of the original DN7C high altitude road whose route the new road will closely shadow.

Built in response to the soviet invasion of Czechoslovakia in 1968, as a strategic route between army garrisons in Sibiu and Pitesti, either side of the Southern Carpathian mountain range, construction officially took four years and claimed 40 lives. In reality, Transfagarasan took until 1980 to finish, a further six years, and many hundreds of workers died.

For drivers from Western Europe hoping to drive the famous mountain pass road there is some better news. Of the 70 miles of new motorway expected to open in Romania this year, the vast majority will be on the stretch between the Hungarian border and Sibiu near the northern end of Transfagarasan. By summer 2015 less than fifty miles will be single track cutting several hours off the 1,300 mile drive from Calais.

Read about our attempt to drive Transfagarasan in May 2013.

UPDATE 6 August: the Transfagarasan motorway is key to joining the Euro says the National Bank governor today, explaining that the road is vital for developing the regions outside of booming capital Bucharest. Romania has previously set a target date of 1 January 2019 to join the Continental currency.

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The red dots of Tesla’s operational supercharger network now spreads across the Continent like an angry rash. There are now 42 open - 28 on mainland Europe - stretching from Nordkapp in northern Norway (above) down through Denmark, Germany, Austria, Switzerland and now even Slovenia. In the past few weeks six have opened around the main A6/A7 autoroutes to the South of France from Paris. Within a few months the network will have doubled; by the end of the year it will have tripled. The superchargers provide half a charge in 20 minutes at no cost. Tesla says superchargers will always be free for Model S owners. Photo via @Tesla_Europe. See teslamotors.com/en_GB/supercharger for more.

The red dots of Tesla’s operational supercharger network now spreads across the Continent like an angry rash. There are currently 42 ready to use – 28 on mainland Europe – stretching from Nordkapp in northern Norway (above) down through Denmark, Germany, Austria, Switzerland and now even Slovenia. In the past few weeks six have opened around the main A6/A7 autoroutes to the South of France from Paris. Within a few months the network will have doubled; by the end of the year it will have tripled. The superchargers provide half a charge in 20 minutes at no cost. Tesla says superchargers will always be free for Model S owners. Photo via @Tesla_Europe. See teslamotors.com/en_GB/supercharger for more.

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Driving The Loop: The Logisitics

Driving the six ‘Central Alps Mountain Passes’ around Andermatt in Switzerland: where, when, how long and where next?

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The view from the Seehotel Waldstatterhof

The view from the Seehotel Waldstatterhof in Brunnen, thirty miles north of Andermatt on the A2.

The day dawned bright and clear. Damn! The last hope had been that bad weather would shut all the roads on The Loop – Das Loop – the six super-high mountain roads, not one less than 2000m (6,500ft), around Andermatt in south central Switzerland.

After two weeks in the mountains you might have thought we’d be used to it by now and we were, to a certain extent – enjoying it even – but most of the others were spaced apart with time to calm down in between. These six are all literally one straight after the other.

Oh well, time to grit the teeth and get on with it. We could be done and dusted by early afternoon and spend the rest of the day in a bar…

That was a vain hope too. The total distance covered turned out to be 190 miles. We started at 11:00 and finished at 17:30 for an average speed, including one short break, of 29.2mph. I’m surprised it was that high.

One thing that wasn’t a problem was tourist traffic. Even in early July, apart from the road work’s queue on the Gotthard Pass, we had most of the roads to ourselves.

That’s encouraging because they have a very short operating window. You can’t bank on them all being open outside of mid-June to early October. On top of that, mountain weather can mean one or all of them being shut at short notice. Even after a whole day of clear skies, just before we drove Furka the cloud was visibly descending and it started to rain.

On the other hand it does have to be pretty bad for the Swiss to shut roads – see Oberalppass.

Driving the loop without repeated yourself too much is tricky. The way we went – Gotthard (Tremola), Nufenen, Grimsel, Susten, Furka – meant doubling up only on the first part of Gotthard and the stretch of Furkastrasse between Gletsch and Innertkirchen (albeit in the opposite direction).

Of course, to truly experience these roads you have to drive them both ways. To do that it one day you’d have to start early, drive fast, be lucky and take no breaks..

The big question then is where next? After Furka we headed south west to Brig and got the Simplon Pass over to Italy (then motorwayed to the Mediterranean, arriving at 21:45). To the east of Andermatt is Oberalppass to Graubünden (east Switzerland), then Lenzerheide and Julier Passes down to St Moritz, Bernina Pass, Albula Pass, Davos, Fluela Pass and all the rest (see PassFinder).

If you really want to scare yourself head north on the A2 for twenty miles to Altdorf and take H4/H17 Klausen Pass towards Zurich.

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‘The Loop’, six mountain passes around Andermatt in south central Switzerland. See here for Gotthard Pass and TremolaNufenen Pass, Grimsel PassSusten Pass and Furka Pass.

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Das Loop #6: Furka Pass.

Nobody expects an easy ride on James Bond’s favourite mountain road, do they?

For maps see below. Click photos to enlarge.

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The east end of the Furka Pass starts from the Gotthard Pass at Hospental, just up the Urseren Valley from Andermatt. It ends at Gletsch (also at the bottom of Grimsel Pass) after 17.5 miles. H19 Furkastrasse runs flat for a few miles beside the Furka-Oberalp railway line then, after Realp (below), starts to climb.

In the book, Bonds tails Goldfinger across France to Coppet, just up the lake from Geneva. In the film, the action takes place on the Furka Pass. Whatever other liberties it takes with Fleming’s original, the movie’s basic sequence is correct – the first shot of Goldfinger’s Rolls-Royce is heading up the mountain from the Belvedere Hotel on the west ascent (i.e. in the opposite to us). Bond and Tilly Masterson follow Goldfinger over the pass until he stops to buy apples from a stall on the final hairpin, just above the Reuss River before Realp. As Bond watches over from higher up the mountain, Masterson, higher still, takes her famous shot, kicking up the dust beside Bond’s foot. Bond then shreds Tilly’s tyres on the H19 between Realp and Hospental, beside the Furka railway line, and drops her at the Aurora filling station on Gotthardstrasse on the way into Andermatt (now the Aurora Garage and Hotel, and restaurant Aelpli).

In the book, Bonds tails Goldfinger across France to Coppet, up the lake from Geneva. In the film, the action takes place on the Furka Pass. Whatever other liberties it takes with Fleming’s original, the movie’s basic sequence is correct – the first shot of Goldfinger’s Rolls-Royce is heading up the mountain from the Belvedere Hotel on the west ascent (i.e. in the opposite direction to us). Bond and Tilly Masterson follow Goldfinger over the pass until he stops to buy some fruit from a stall on the final hairpin, above the Furkareuss River before Realp. As Bond watches over from higher up the mountain, Masterson, higher still, takes her famous shot, kicking up the dust beside Bond’s feet. Bond later shreds Tilly’s tyres on the H19 back to Hospental, beside the railway line. He drops her off at the Aurora filling station on Gotthardstrasse on the way into Andermatt (now the Aurora Garage and Hotel, and Restaurant Aelpli).

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The bollards have been replaced recently, and moved closer together, but the essential character of Furka has been retained. Oh yes. Who knows, this might be the very corner where Sean Connery stood looking down on Oddjob and Goldfinger.

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After the 15.4km Furka Base Tunnel opened in 1982 – a car train runs between Disentis via Oberalppass to Andermatt then on to Brig – the original track from 1925, bottom centre, was left redundant. However it reopened in 2010 as a heritage line and now runs between Realp and Oberwald with steam engines. The Furkareuss river draws water from both the Uri Alps in the north and Lepontine Alps in the south. It meets the Gotthardreuss at Hospental to make the Reuss River proper.

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Not all of the bollards have been spruced up. Not to put too fine a point on it, the road on the east side is, in places, too narrow for two cars to pass at the same time.

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The lesser known of the six hotels on the Furka Pass but potentially the most interesting. Hotel Furkablick was built in 1896 when the road was first constructed for stagecoaches. The rooms have been preserved exactly as was, furniture and all, but the ground floor was made-over by modernist architect Rem Koolhaas. The hotel was taken on by a Neuchatel gallerist in the 1980s and reimagined as an unlikely meeting place for artists, hikers, bikers and drivers. The striped shutters are the characteristic work of French conceptual artist Daniel Buren. Dotted around the mountainsides are discreet, carved ‘truisms’ by Jenny Holzer. The hotel part is now sadly shut but the (concrete and steel) restaurant and bar, as you can see, are still open.

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It’s no surprise manufacturers, Kia in this case, find Furka a suitable testing course for new vehicles.

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2436m, 7992ft. Maximum 11% gradient.

Actually Grimsel Pass from the top of Furka Pass.

Grimsel Pass from Furka. Also down there are the first few splashes of the River Rhone.

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Poor Mutt. Muttgletscher – Mutt Glacier – barely rates a mention anywhere due to being a mere 1km long. Dwarfed in every sense by its incredible, awe-inpsiring near neighbour.

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Hat tip to this guy. There were plenty of motorhomes at the top so Furka is clearly not restricted for larger vehicles. Still, it was a shock to see a full size coach on the way up bearing in mind how narrow the road is on the other side. It turns out however that the Swiss Postbus network includes trips over all the Central Alps passes.

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That dirty grey crust centre left is the Rhone Glacier, source of the River Rhone. Early last century it reached down almost into Gletsch but has been in retreat since. It’s still 8km long, starting at the western slope of Dammastock (3630m – the highest peak in the Uri Alps), running down between Galenstock (3586m) and Klein Furkahorn (3026m) in the east, and Garstenhorner (3189m) in the west. Whereas the Furkareuss river flows down into the Rhine, and ultimately to the North Sea, the Rhone heads west to fill Lake Geneva then to the Mediterranean through south east France.

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Just to the right of the Rhone Glacier, tucked into its own hairpin, is the Belvedere Hotel, the place to stay if you want a closer look at the glacier. An ice grotto is dug each season so you can actually walk inside. Tours 7CHF, rooms 95-265CHF, see gletscher.ch

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Furka Pass is the sixth road on ‘The Loop’, six mountain passes all centered on Andermatt in south central Switzerland. See here for the first two, Gotthard Pass and Tremola, or here for Nufenen Pass, Grimsel Pass and Susten Pass.

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Weekend Traffic: Could be Worse – MyFerryLink to Appeal Dover Ruling

TODAY: this weekend’s holiday traffic will be heaviest in Dover, Germany and possibly Austria.

Plus, MyFerryLink will appeal the latest competition ruling barring it from Dover, P&O is reviewing its policy on carrying pets after a dog died on board last week, and ferries to Norway are on high security alert after police uncover a terrorist plot.

GIBRALTAR FRONTIER WATCH: quiet overnight, 30min delays 09:30. Max 25mins since.

TOUR DE FRANCE WATCH: Maubourguet Pays du Val d’Adour to Bergerac.

CALAIS TRUCKS MIGRANTS PETITION: 2,506 signatures since 15.7. See @Justice4Trucker.

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WEEKEND TRAFFIC: COULD BE WORSE

Fingers crossed for a typical summer Saturday though Germany will be busy and possibly Austria.

Weekend traffic: bad in places, but hopefully not too bad.

Weekend traffic: undoubtedly bad in places, but hopefully not too bad.

This weekend will be one of the summer’s busiest in Dover. Passengers are being warned to leave plenty of time to clear check-in and, particularly, passport control.

Meanwhile, apart from Germany, absolute carnage is not expected on the roads, certainly not compared with the high days in August. The one complication will be holidaymakers returning home. Up until now just the outbound routes have been busy.

France is traffic level red, one down from the worst, for drivers setting off on Saturday. They mainly head south from Paris, on the A6/A7 via Lyon or A10 via Bordeaux, or west on the A13. The A9 down to the Spanish border is a pinchpoint too. Friday evening heading out and Saturday all day heading home are code orange, another step down again. Sunday will be quiet.

Having said that, the roads have been busier than expected so far this summer so do expect some delays. Also, the Tour de France enters its final weekend, between Bergerac and Perigeaux on Saturday, and Evry (south of Paris) to the Champs Elysee on Sunday. Best avoid these areas.

We’re getting used to the flowery phrases the ADAC uses to describe traffic conditions in Germany. ‘The jams are likely to be even more violent than last weekend,’ it says looking ahead to Saturday.

Friday evening and all day Saturday are likely to see long delays, on all the usual suspects – heading north to the coasts – A1, A7, A20, A24 – south to the mountains and Mediterranean – A3, A5, A7, A8, A9 – and across the border to Austria particularly. Sunday will be quieter.

In addition, the A9 (Berlin-Leipzig) is closed at Dessau northbound for 24 hours from 07:00 Saturday, then southbound until 07:00 Monday.

Every weekend throughout the summer is intensely busy at Switzerland’s A2 Gotthard Tunnel; expect delays of up to two hours southbound from early on Saturday with the focus gradually shifting to northbound.

The long term road works on the H2 Gotthard Pass are suspended for the summer weekends. To avoid the tunnel this way, southbound, come off the A2 ASAP, probably junction 38, Amsteg. Even then be prepared to wait.

A good northbound alternative is the Lukmanier Pass from Biasca. It connects with the H19 Oberalppass at Disentis and drops down to the A2 at the north tunnel entrance. See more here.

Austria has defied prediction so far this year. The weekend before last was very quiet, blamed on World Cup fever. Last weekend only got really busy on the cross border roads, B179 Fernpass from the German A7, and the A95/B2 from Garmisch.

Perhaps this weekend we will finally see the full monte – both of the above plus a crowded A10 southbound Salzburg-Villach, A13 Brenner south to Italy, east-west A14/S16 Bregenz-Innsbruck and A12/A93/A8 Innsbruck-Munich…

Certainly the A4 southbound from Vienna to the Hungarian border will be crowded due to the Hungarian Grand Prix in Budapest.

In Italy, Saturday will doubtless see long queues from the A1 to A14 at Bologna, direction Rimini, and Sunday evening around the Ligurian coast – A10 to Savona and Genoa, A12 to Genoa from La Spezia and probably also the A11 back to Florence from Via Reggio.

Also, if the weather is good, expect delays on the A10/E40 to Brussels from the Belgian coast on Sunday evening.

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It's long term future is still in doubt but while legal action is on-going MyFerryLink will continue to serve the Dover-Calais route until the end of the year at least. More later.

MyFerryLink will appeal the latest ruling from the Competition authority – barring it from Dover – on the same grounds as it – successfully – appealed the previous decision. It maintains the authority has no jurisdiction because the controversial deal with Eurotunnel – whereby the fixed-link operator bought three ships from the former SeaFrance and leased them to MFL – does not ‘effectively constitute’ a merger between the two firms so there is no ‘unfair competition’ case to answer. This comes a few days after Eurotunnel said it would continue to back MyFerryLink despite reporting an overall £8.7m loss for the first six months of 2014 due to its support for the ferry operator… MFL freight traffic grew by 30% but the operator is being held back by a ‘lack of awareness’ among car passengers says Eurotunnel’s CEO. Eurotunnel’s own revenues grew by 8% meanwhile with cars numbers up 5% and trucks up 3%. UPDATE 6 August: MFL’s appeal will be held on 24 November.

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roundup: DOVER-CALAIS. P&O is reviewing its policy on carrying certain kinds of dogs after a pug died on one of its Dover-Calais ferries last week. A statement from the company suggests the incident was down to the animal being a ‘brachycephalic breed’, i.e. prone to breathing difficulties. Other dogs in the same car survived. P&O acknowledges that inland weather conditions were ‘oppressively hot and humid’ at the time but says the temperature was lower at sea, the deck was not exposed to the sun and was ventilated by ‘a constant through-flow of cooling fresh air along the entire length’. Sky News presenter @KayBurley is vigorously taking up the issue on behalf of dog loving viewers. NORWAY. Drivers and ferry passengers heading to Norway should be prepared for enhanced border checks after security services uncovered a terrorist plot today. Few details are given except that an attack on an unspecified target is expected on Monday says Copenhagen Post. 

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Steep Tolls on new A35 Milan-Brescia – Latent Power Tour de France

TODAY: road tolls on the new A35 motorway direct between Milan and Brescia will be more expensive than the longer A4 Milan-Bergamo-Brescia.

Despite some bad luck, all eyes will be on TEAM Sky at the Tour de France finale this weekend thanks to the Jaguar support vehicles.

This weekend’s traffic report has been moved here.

GIBRALTAR FRONTIER WATCH: quiet overnight, 40min delay late afternoon, 1h40 late evening.

TOUR DE FRANCE WATCH: Pau to Hautacam.

CALAIS TRUCKS MIGRANTS PETITION: 2,446 signatures since 15.7. See @Justice4Trucker.

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STEEP TOLLS ON NEW A35 MILAN-BRESCIA

New road cuts distance by a third but hikes by charges by half or more.

The new A35, direct Milan-Brescia. Photo via @BreBeMi

The new A35, direct Milan-Brescia. Photo via @BreBeMi

The new A35 BreBeMi motorway had its official unveiling yesterday and opened for regular traffic this morning, five years to the day since the first sod was turned.

It runs direct between Milan and Brescia, shadowing the route of the existing A4 but missing out Bergamo and hence cutting the distance by a third.

Accessing the road from the Milan end is an issue for the time being. Eventually A35 will connect with the A4 in the north and A1 in the south via the still under-construction TEEM east tangential road. Currently only a short stretch of TEEM is open, at the A35 junction, to connect with SP103 into Milan city centre.

At the east end however, BreBeMi meets the A4 just west of Brescia.

Tolls range from €10.50 for a car to €29.10 for a large truck for the entire 62km length. This compares with 91km via the A4 Milano-Bergamo-Brescia and tolls of €6.30 to €15.30.

For maps – Google hasn’t quite got its act together yet – or to read about the history of the project, and the other large scale motorway plans in northern Italy, see here – or www.BreBeMi.it (or @BreBeMi) for more (Italian only).

UPDATE 25 July: more than 18,000 drivers used the A35 on its first day of operation, far ahead of expectations says BreBeMi. Having analysed the first set of real-life sate, the official journey time is now 38 minutes, end to end.

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TEAM Sky might be out of contention but the squad will still attract its fair share of attention at this weekend’s Tour de France finale thanks to its booming pair of Jaguar support vehicles. Alongside the five litre V8 XF Sportbreak sits a similarly powered, custom built F-TYPE coupe. The latter features special channels cut into the tailgate – among other things – to accommodate two racing bikes, all designed and built by Jaguar’s new Special Vehicle Operations bespoke outfit. With speeds rarely breaking 60mph both cars are totally over the top but it is this latent power that is so sexy, no?

TEAM Sky might be out of contention but the squad will still attract its fair share of attention at this weekend’s Tour de France finale thanks to its booming pair of Jaguar support vehicles. Alongside the five litre V8 XF Sportbreak sits a similarly powered, custom built F-TYPE coupe. The latter features special channels cut into the tailgate – among other things – to accommodate two racing bikes, all designed and built by Jaguar’s new Special Vehicle Operations bespoke outfit. With speeds rarely breaking 60mph both cars are totally over the top but it is this latent power that is so sexy, no?

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France Auto-toll Overcharge Warning – Trendy Tractor Touring

TODAY: drivers with bikes or roof boxes may be overcharged at French motorway automatic tollbooths. A man on an epic 8,000 mile charity tractor tour around Scandinavia is on the lookout for volunteer support vehicle drivers.

NOTE: national day of mourning in the Netherlands today for victims of MH17 disaster. Remains arrive at Eindhoven airbase at 16:00. Church bells ring five minutes beforehand, a minute’s silence afterwards. Convoy travels north on A2 to Hilversum. Also, major floods and landslides in north central Slovakia.

GIBRALTAR FRONTIER WATCH: quiet overnight and today but delays of up to 60mins this evening.

TOUR DE FRANCE WATCH: Saint-Gaudens to Saint-Lary Pla d’Adet.

CALAIS TRUCKS MIGRANTS PETITION: 2,312 signatures since 15.7. See @Justice4Trucker.

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FRANCE AUTO TOLL OVERCHARGE WARNING.

Company says easy to check and full refunds given.

The automatic toll lanes on the A8 near Nice. Photo @DriveEurope

The automatic toll lanes on the A8 near Nice. Photo @DriveEurope

Drivers are being warned about overcharging at the automatic toll lane booths on French motorways.

Belgian auto club VAB says one in ten of the free-flowing Liber-t lanes calculates the wrong toll if the vehicle is carrying a roof box or bikes. The fee can be hiked by as much as 50%.

However, a spokesman for Sanef UK, the company which distributes the toll tags in the UK on behalf of its French parent company, told @DriveEurope today issues only arise occasionally, that customers can easily tell if they have been overcharged and that they will receive a full refund.

The fully itemised bill lists the time, date and entry and exit points on the motorways and also the vehicle class.

Cars less than 2m high and weighing less than 3.5 tonnes – including a trailer – are Class 1, even if bikes or a roof box exceed the 2m limit.

Obtaining a refund can take up to six weeks however. Sanef in France reviews video footage at the toll booth to ensure the vehicle is as described.

The automatic Liber-T tags are designed to speed up paying for tolls and avoid the sometimes long queues at cash or credit card toll booths. British customers have the money taken directly from their bank accounts by a UK subsidiary. Read more here.

When @DriveEurope first spoke to Sanef UK in March 2013 the company had 20,000 customers. That had grown to 32,000 by September and now stands at 55,000.

It will be decided this autumn if the T tag will also work with the new Dartford Crossing tolls.

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Tractor Touring is now a thing. We didn’t think too much about it after spending a few minutes behind this chap and his trailer on Susten Pass in Switzerland earlier this month. But today’s Daily Mail carries two big stories on epic tractor trips. One man has just driven 1,000 miles in 22 days from near Stuttgart to Port Madog in wales in his vintage Porsche. Meanwhile, Peter Matheson is taking a Massey Ferguson on an 8,000 mile trip around Scandinavia, at a maximum 15mph, with caravan in tow, accompanied by his labrador Amber. The latter is in support of the Tom Bowdidge Foundation, named after a young man who died of cancer last year. Mr Matheson is on the lookout for volunteers to drive a Ford Transit support vehicle, for a few days at a time. Email: peter.matheson63@gmail.com

Tractor Touring is now a thing. We didn’t think too much about it after spending a few minutes behind this chap and his trailer on Susten Pass in Switzerland earlier this month. But today’s Daily Mail carries two big stories on epic tractor trips. One man has just driven 1,000 miles in 22 days from near Stuttgart to Port Madog, Wales, in his vintage Porsche. Meanwhile, Peter Matheson is taking a Massey Ferguson on an 8,000 mile trip around Scandinavia, at a maximum 15mph, with caravan in tow, accompanied by his labrador Amber. The latter is in support of the Tom Bowdidge Foundation, named after a young man who died of cancer last year. Mr Matheson is on the lookout for volunteers to drive a Ford Transit support vehicle, for a few days at a time. Email: peter.matheson63 at gmail.com

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Sexy new buildings at Porsche's development centre at Weissach, just off the A8 west of Stuttgart. Includes a concept car studio, a wind tunnel and 'Electronics Integration Centre'.

Sexy new buildings at Porsche’s development centre at Weissach, just off the A8 west of Stuttgart. Includes a concept car studio, a wind tunnel and ‘Electronics Integration Centre’.

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Das Loop #5: scary Susten Pass.

Everything about this road freaks us out.

All photos @DriveEurope. Click to enlarge. For maps see below.

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At 28 miles Susten Pass is the longest road on the loop. It runs through the Uri (Urner) Alps – west to east from Bern canton to Uri canton, the Hasli valley to the Reuss Valley, Innertkirchen to Wassen – with several off-shoots along the way.

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The bald facts tell you very little. Topping out at 2224m – 7296ft – makes it medium high. The maximum 9% slope is frankly a bit pony.

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Very soon however it’s clear there’s no great appetite for study barriers. Meanwhile the drops are pretty much vertical.

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It’s also a racer’s road. Don’t be surprised if a boy racer steams past, admirably oblivious to the risks.

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Susten separates the Uri Alps into its two main groups, the (lower) Titlis ridge to the north and the Dammastock Massif to the south.

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The Stein Glacier is the big attraction, just on the west side of the pass head, pouring 4.3km down into Steinsee Lake between Sustenhorn (3503m, left) and Gwachtenhorn (3420m). From here the water flows west into the Aare then into the Rhine. Steingletscher has only retreated by 1km in the past 150 years, far less than others, though it’s not clear why. The off-shoot road takes you right up alongside.

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Phew. (RicoRally.co.uk loves this road).

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Normally the way down is much easier. Susten was actually more unsettling. The fact there are now barriers is deeply disconcerting – it must be really dangerous! – though, on reflection, the road now being in Uri canton probably has a lot to do with that. Clearly they are more risk averse than their neighbours in Bern.

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The long valley views are great – you can see almost all the way down to the bottom of the Meiental Valley right from the top. On the other hand you can’t avoid seeing what’s coming up. That hairpin down there looks seriously precarious. In reality it’s fine. The road is the same width and you can’t see over the edge.

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The views are much better in retrospect.

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The ‘sust’ in Susten means warehouse, where mules were transhipped, i.e. had their loads transferred from one to the other. There’s been trade across here since at least the Middle Ages and a road since the early 19th century though it was rebuilt just before WW2.

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Only a third of Susten Pass is on the east side but it’s directly downhill most of the way. That’s okay for us. Not sure I’d be so keen driving the other way.

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Wide-eyed bikers coming the other way pull into a lay-by ahead of us as we get near the bottom, clearly having second thoughts.  They follow us back down but, obviously calculating that if two ponces in a Range Rover can handle it then so can they, turn round again. Theoretically mountain roads are easier on a bike; smaller vehicle, you don’t have to get quite so close to the edge. Ultimately though, when the road gets higher and higher and higher and higher and higher, with 1000ft sheer drops just feet away, it doesn’t seem to make much difference what you’re driving.

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The road in the bottom of the valley past Wassen is the A2 motorway. Beyond is the Schollenen Gorge back up to the Gotthard Pass.

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Susten Pass is the fifth road on ‘The Loop’, six mountain passes all centered on Andermatt in south central Switzerland. See here for the first two, Gotthard Pass and Tremola, or here for Nufenen Pass, Grimsel Pass and Furka (coming up).

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